Friday, April 15, 2011

Garissa!

Right now I am in Nairobi. This morning I was in Garissa, the provincial capital of Northeastern province which is on the border with Somalia. Don't worry – it turns out you only need an armored convoy if you drive past Garissa, for example to Dadaab, one of the main Somali refugee camps in Kenya. This trip to Garissa was planned and cancelled and planned again but I'm glad I got to go along for the ride – Dr. Njenga, the head of the new zoonoses program at CDC Kenya, worked in Garissa a few years ago during the Rift Valley Fever outbreak, and he's been wanting to get more projects set up there ever since. Now that we have a zoonoses program, and some exciting new collaborations, the plan is to set up a demographic surveillance system for livestock potentially in combination with an extension of my mobile-phone based surveillance – this time in a place with wildlife too!

Long story short, we met with lots of people, from the District Veterinary Officer to the Kenya Wildlife Service guys to my friends Kelly and Victoria who work in Kisumu but also happened to be in Garissa on Thursday night…Garissa is a predominantly Muslim town, so the only place that served alcohol (and since it was Victoria's 30th birthday, the place where we had to go) is the Government Guesthouse. The town also features a lot of camels, a lot of dust, and one or possibly two fancy hotels that cost no more than 3000 shillings (about $35) per night. Our fancy hotel, the Nomad, had a staircase with stairs of varying heights. This is actually fairly common in Kenya and is extremely disconcerting. In any case, I had a really good time in Garissa and brainstorming how to set up an integrated human and animal disease surveillance system –plus I got to meet a baby giraffe rescued by the Kenya Wildlife Service after being abandoned by its mother. She is only a few days old (still has umbilical cord) and is already as tall as me!! I also got to see my first baobab trees on the drive over there. It is such a different part of Kenya than where I'd been before.

Giraffe calf being bottle fed at the KWS office


Baobab tree along the Garissa-Nairobi road

The extreme poverty in and around Garissa is in stark contrast to the ridiculousness of where some of the people that I work with live in Nairobi – there's kind of an ex-pat wonderland up near Muthaiga, which is a neighborhood full of extremely large fancy houses, and high stone walls with electrified or barbed wire on top. When we stopped inside Njenga's double-gated – think airlock except made of bars - compound to use the bathroom before hitting Nairobi traffic to get to our hostel, we wandered in to the community center which contains a store stocked full of American goods, as well as a large number of extremely well-dressed American stay at home moms and a group of teenage boys each on their own laptop with headphones on sitting around a table next to a pool and tennis courts. This is the neighborhood that I read about in It's Our Turn to Eat by Michela Wrong – where corrupt Kenyan politicians spend their millions. Speaking of millions, the top news story in one of the Kenyan papers was about $10,000,000 (yes, ten million US dollars) that one of the Ocampo 6 (the Kenyan leaders accused of war crimes for their role in the post-election violence in 2007) was clever enough to lose at the airport when coming back from hearing his accusations at the Hague. First of all, WHAT? And second of all, WHAT??? If you are carrying $10,000,000 in $100 bills in a duffel bag, shouldn't you handcuff it to your wrist? There is just so much fishiness in this story, including the question of how it is possible to carry 100,000 $100 bills in a carry-on, I don't even know where to start. Hopefully Robin Hood stole it…




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