Easter birthdays and weddings

Pascal the tuktuk driver was born on Easter, like me. Unlike me, he celebrates his birthday on Easter regardless of when it happens to fall, and claims to not actually know the correct date. Apparently he said "My birthday has never been at the end of April before!"

Most people here don't have birth certificates and may also take some liberties with their age and their birthday. A friend told me about twins that she knows - on the official government ID of the brother, it says he was born 5 years earlier than his twin sister. Either people don't know, or don't really care about their exact age. This kind of disregard for facts reminds me of my primary pet peeve [bigger peeves, such as rampant corruption, are not included...] about Kenya - which is that people don't care about how things are spelled! People spell their names differently at different times, which I can accept as personal choice, but this trend also spills over into the set up of our lab database and other places where data matching is essential. It kind of makes me twitch.

In other news, this past weekend I traveled to Ruma National Park, "the last home of the Roan antelope [in Kenya]," which is an incredibly beautiful park south of here. To get there, we drove north around Winam Gulf and took the ferry across to Mbita. Somehow they manage to fit about 9 cars on a fairly small boat, along with a lot of people, bags of charcoal, motorbikes, wooden poles, and just about anything you can think of. Luckily the ride is only 45 minutes and there aren't too many hippos or crocodiles out in the center of the lake...


The ferry ride is awesome, though, and we got to see a different perspective of the lake. Kenya has about 6% of the whole of Lake Victoria, most of which is a gulf that is frequently clogged with water hyacinth and which is full of schistosomes.


Once on the other side, the lake opens out and looks more like an ocean, with little waves and a huge blueness that is a really nice contrast to the brown and green lake that I'm used to seeing.

Ruma is a cool park - although it rained heavily on us when we drove through the first time. We say an enormous group (tower) of giraffes standing out in the rain, probably 35 of them.


We stayed at the Kenya Wildlife Service banda which is a self-catering cottage, and we did a lot of self-catering...we brought enough food for several armies. But we had an excellent time sitting on the terrace and enjoying this view over the park:


We were inspired to go to Ruma because a friend from the UK was getting married to a Luo man out there in his rural home, which is so close to Tanzania that as kids they would just ride their bikes across the border. The wedding was really fun, although we had to run away from the reception early before a huge storm blew all the tents over, and we possibly severely insulted the hosts by not shoving food down our throats as we ran away. Oops. It was exciting to see a wedding with such a fun mix of Western and African traditions - although the bride wore a white dress, the groom, groomsmen and bridesmaid were all decked out in colorful Kenyan fabric.

This week there is another long weekend - Monday is off for May day or some bank holiday or something. Perhaps I will take another exciting trip! But with all the traveling (conference, etc.) I have planned for the month of May, it seems I only have 7 weekends left in Kisumu. The past 9.5 months have just flown by...

Vacation is Nice

Well I'm back in Kenya, where it is nice and warm and sunny and happy. Except that there was a ridiculous thunderstorm yesterday, and I got pretty soaked.

Unfortunately, nothing gets done on vacation and the frustrating roadblocks that were slowing my progress in December before I left are, for the most part, still there.

But I am happy to be back, I really enjoy being here regardless of the status of the project.

Here's an excerpt from my mid-year report draft for the Compton Foundation, which expresses a general reflection on the past six months:

I’m back in Kenya now after a holiday break at home in the states, and it is really nice to be back. I feel at home here and I think that feeling is a very important accomplishment of my fellowship so far. Of course, the incredibly beautiful weather doesn’t hurt. While in the US, I hoped to be able to spend a lot of time reflecting on the past six months, but I ended up really taking a break and disconnecting myself from everything in Kenya for a couple of weeks. This turned out to be great and helpful, as I eventually realized that I hadn’t taken any psychological time off from my project since arriving here in July.

When I arrived way back in July (how is it possible that it can feel so long ago and yet also feel like time has gone by incredibly fast?) I didn’t know anyone or how to get around town, hadn’t met my mentor in person, and had very little hands on experience with the mobile technology I planned to use for my project. Right away, I made friends with a couple of the people I was staying with, and they helped show me around. I had a meeting with Darryn where we established a framework for the project plan and I learned that he would be leaving for a job in South Africa in September, and then I jumped into the project. It’s been pretty much a whirlwind ever since, both in the sense that it’s been incredibly busy and in that I feel like progress is more like a corkscrew than a straight road. Looking back on my notes from early in the fellowship, I see lists of tasks, many of which are no longer applicable or still haven’t been accomplished.

I’ve asked myself many times why progress is so slow and seemingly circular. I’ve tried to blame myself for not working hard enough, and spent a decent number of weekends and evenings working or telling myself I should be working. Luckily, I’ve made enough friends here that I now usually have plenty of excuses to relax on the weekends. Getting used to a working lifestyle rather than my school lifestyle has definitely been interesting – sleeping from 11 pm to 7 am, working from 8 to 5:30 and coming home and cooking dinner certainly contrasts with the unpredictable schedule I had at Princeton: eating when I was hungry (dinner at 3 pm or 10 pm), sleeping when it was absolutely unavoidable (often at 2 or 3 am, occasionally later) and thinking that class at 10 am was a bit too early. When I went back to Princeton for a night while I was in NJ, I was pleased to not be writing papers or studying for finals, and I told my friends that are still there that life in the “real world” is great!

Does a Compton Fellowship count as the “real world” or is it something else? If the rest of the real world is almost as unrepeatable, unforgettable, and amazing as a Compton Fellowship, then I’m glad to be a part of it. I think a large part of the Compton Mentor Fellow experience for me so far has been allowing myself to be convinced that I am qualified to be doing this and that I deserve to be here, while also increasing the depth of my understanding of how lucky I am to have the opportunity to do this. That luck has allowed me to get to know great people in an amazing place while many people I know at home or unemployed or struggling to enjoy their work. I’m also lucky to be working on a project where I can try to improve the health of livestock and therefore improve the lives of the people that rely on them. Seeing the poverty in this area, and learning about the HIV/AIDS prevalence (the highest in the country) and the high rate of malaria, as well as other infectious diseases, especially zoonoses, has made it easy to see why moving away from the easy life in the US in order to try to make a difference is worthwhile. The challenge is making that difference, and making it sustainable, and assessing whether the people here actually feel like a difference has been made. Even though I know I won’t accomplish everything I want to by the time my fellowship year is up, I will at least have opened up opportunities for myself to continue to work to improve the health of animals and people.

The pictures you have all been waiting for

So I'm currently sitting at the Duke of Breeze Rooftop Bar (DuKe stands for Dutch Kenyans since it is run by some Dutch people, apparently they showed the World Cup final here and all the Dutch in town (which is many) turned up).

The reason I'm not at the office, besides the fact that the internet there is awful, is that this morning I had to renew my visa! That means I've been here three months. Which is ridiculous since, if you count the month or two I'll be in Scotland and other places, it means that I am a third of the way through my time in Kenya. Ahhh I'm scaring myself. But renewing the visa was thankfully painless, although I had to strike a delicate balance and make sure to emphasize that I am not working but just came here on holiday because I love Kenya. Which is pretty much true. I also had to give real ink fingerprints, and my hands are a bit stained now but presumably that won't last forever. And apparently in a month I can go back and pick up my Alien Registration acknowledgment, whatever that means.

So I decided to take this opportunity to use the fast internet and download all the programs I need to start setting up a data collection program on Android. And post a ton of pictures.

First, the house I live in:

The living room. Note the parquet floors and tasteful interior stone wall.

My backyard (there is a very noisy construction site on the other side of the wall).

The view of the sunset from my porch.

The view from the top of Mount Kisian (aka the hill near the CDC/KEMRI HQ)

A newborn calf reported and responded to.

Participants in our Participatory Epidemiology interviews participating by deciding how to divide buttons to indicate the causes of certain types of diarrhea.

My job as recorder mostly involved counting buttons and reminding the translator to tell me what was going on.

On Ndere Island, there are a ton of swallows.

Jo, Steph and Per walking ahead of me on the island.

This calf was the last one recruited to the IDEAL study that I talked about a few weeks ago. They get sampled every 5 weeks from birth to a year, so this calf, at the last visit, clearly knew what was in store for it.

What was in store for it involved being measured with a giant ruler. By the way, this calf, according to genetic markers, is 100% native African cattle with no European blood. They used it as a really prime example of why you can't tell the breed just by looking at color.

This is the view of the Kisumu skyline from the lake. The one relatively tall building that stands out is a 30 floor (ish) monstrosity that was built as the provincial headquarters. That's where I went to get my visa renewed this morning. Unfortunately, the building was ahead of its time, and they may have run out of money while building it, so it sat empty for a long time. Now the bottom 6 floors are in use, but none above that because there is no elevator.

This is an update

Considering I found myself checking my own blog for updates, I figured it was time to write one…

This week has been good, the ILRI vets that came to visit were super awesome and I definitely want to be them when I grow up. One of them has been offered a job as the veterinary medical officer in charge of the CDC base in Cairo. I encouraged her to take it and then hire me! Perfect. They came to Kisumu to discuss some logistics for a participatory epidemiology study they are planning to set up in Asembo, the same area where I'm setting up my surveillance system. There's an ongoing zoonoses project that looks at diarrheal diseases in children under five, and they are doing participatory epi, which involves semi-structured interviews of community members, to determine what local knowledge exists about the diseases. They asked me (or maybe I begged them I don't remember) to help out by evaluating one of the interview teams, and this means I get to go to the refresher training that they are holding and learn how to do participatory epidemiology myself! Then after I experience it we are going to go out and do it for my project! This will establish a baseline of what people know about zoonoses, and then after the surveillance system has been running for a while, or at the end of my time here, I'll do it again and see how things have changed.

We haven't gotten any reports from my pilot villages since the day we implemented it when it turned out the cow was in heat. I wasn't there, so I'm concerned that the animal health assistants may have discouraged the animal health reporter from reporting by making it seem like it was a really bad thing that he reported that this cow had nervous signs. After seeing the presentation on education through listening and talking about participatory epi, I'm really concerned about improving the communication between our animal health assistants and reporters or farmers. So Tuesday I'm going to get the 3 animal health reporters to come in and try to figure out whether there really haven't been any events in their villages (which is possible) or if they are facing some barriers to reporting that we can help out with.

Also, today I moved into a new house! Steph was kind enough to drive down and pick up me and my two suitcases and Marisa's bike and drive me up the road to my new place, which is in the same compound where she lives. Technically I'm renting one room in a three-bedroom house, but there's no one else staying with me at the moment and I'm not sure if anyone is going to come. This means I'm paying about $300 per month for a furnished three-bedroom house with a back garden, an amazing view of the lake and the sunset when it's not cloudy, and a very nice woman named Nida that cleans and does laundry. Plus it's much closer to the center of town, and about a 3 minute walk from where I catch the shuttle to the office, and it has screens on the windows that keep out the mosquitoes! Where I was staying before I was essentially sharing with hundreds of mosquitoes (plus some people that are nice and don't suck blood). The mosquitoes were fat and lazy and I could frequently catch one in one hand absent-mindedly. The only problem with my new house is that it's adjacent to a very active construction site.