Lyonnaise is much better than Mayonnaise

Hello everyone,
I apologize for the extremely long delay in posting. There have just been so many better things to do!!

For the past week, I've been in Lyon, France at the International Conference on Animal Health Surveillance. I got to do my first ever conference oral presentation, and luckily got it over with within just a few hours of the conference beginning. For the rest of the time I have been enjoying the conference, which was held in a pretty amazing chapel, and not eating the incredibly fancy but undoubtedly meaty hors d'oeuvres that were served (for example, there was some tiny pita bread filled with an unidentifiable substance, and they were held closed with TINY CLOTHESPINS! and balsamic vinegar and soy sauce and such things were served in small pipettes. It's so modern.)

One of the people I met at the conference was the Principal Investigator for that participatory epidemiology study I helped out with a while ago - and after discussing some stuff with him it looks like we will finally move forward with writing that up! Hooray.

Otherwise, this fountain fairly accurately represents how awesome Lyon is. Lyon is a goddess riding four mythical (their hooves have weird claws) horses with steam coming out of their noses. Although the city's claim to fame is being the gastronomic capital of the world, my desire to not eat veal or mussels has limited me somewhat. But tonight I ate at a great vegetarian restaurant (Zone Verte) which is right around the corner from the hotel. They serve only fresh, local, organic food and they serve it on wooden trays which fit perfectly into slots on the table. It is fun.

So the week before the conference, I was busy hanging out at the coast with Christina, who came up from Lesotho to visit! Vacation is hard work and I had barely any time to practice my presentation. For example, we visited the Gedi ruins in Watamu. It's a cool place - a Swahili city that was active from the 13th-17th centuries.

We also visited the amazing and empty beach (it's low season because it's rainy season so there is some seaweed) and played in the water a lot.

The sand is very white.

It was awesome. That's all.

I think I didn't know before how much I like the beach. We went snorkeling and it was like swimming in an aquarium, so many fish!! Amazing. Will have to come back during November when the sea is a bit calmer and you can find dolphins.

One of the most amazing things about Kenya is the incredible range of ecosystems and cultures and landscapes. Lyon is amazing too, as I mentioned. Traveling is awesome but I have been feeling torn between really wanting to actually live in a place (an amazing place, hopefully Pullman lives up to that standard next year...) and wanting to keep seeing new places. Perhaps the solution is to take reasonable length vacations interspersed with having one place to go back to. Something to work towards in life I guess!

Easter birthdays and weddings

Pascal the tuktuk driver was born on Easter, like me. Unlike me, he celebrates his birthday on Easter regardless of when it happens to fall, and claims to not actually know the correct date. Apparently he said "My birthday has never been at the end of April before!"

Most people here don't have birth certificates and may also take some liberties with their age and their birthday. A friend told me about twins that she knows - on the official government ID of the brother, it says he was born 5 years earlier than his twin sister. Either people don't know, or don't really care about their exact age. This kind of disregard for facts reminds me of my primary pet peeve [bigger peeves, such as rampant corruption, are not included...] about Kenya - which is that people don't care about how things are spelled! People spell their names differently at different times, which I can accept as personal choice, but this trend also spills over into the set up of our lab database and other places where data matching is essential. It kind of makes me twitch.

In other news, this past weekend I traveled to Ruma National Park, "the last home of the Roan antelope [in Kenya]," which is an incredibly beautiful park south of here. To get there, we drove north around Winam Gulf and took the ferry across to Mbita. Somehow they manage to fit about 9 cars on a fairly small boat, along with a lot of people, bags of charcoal, motorbikes, wooden poles, and just about anything you can think of. Luckily the ride is only 45 minutes and there aren't too many hippos or crocodiles out in the center of the lake...


The ferry ride is awesome, though, and we got to see a different perspective of the lake. Kenya has about 6% of the whole of Lake Victoria, most of which is a gulf that is frequently clogged with water hyacinth and which is full of schistosomes.


Once on the other side, the lake opens out and looks more like an ocean, with little waves and a huge blueness that is a really nice contrast to the brown and green lake that I'm used to seeing.

Ruma is a cool park - although it rained heavily on us when we drove through the first time. We say an enormous group (tower) of giraffes standing out in the rain, probably 35 of them.


We stayed at the Kenya Wildlife Service banda which is a self-catering cottage, and we did a lot of self-catering...we brought enough food for several armies. But we had an excellent time sitting on the terrace and enjoying this view over the park:


We were inspired to go to Ruma because a friend from the UK was getting married to a Luo man out there in his rural home, which is so close to Tanzania that as kids they would just ride their bikes across the border. The wedding was really fun, although we had to run away from the reception early before a huge storm blew all the tents over, and we possibly severely insulted the hosts by not shoving food down our throats as we ran away. Oops. It was exciting to see a wedding with such a fun mix of Western and African traditions - although the bride wore a white dress, the groom, groomsmen and bridesmaid were all decked out in colorful Kenyan fabric.

This week there is another long weekend - Monday is off for May day or some bank holiday or something. Perhaps I will take another exciting trip! But with all the traveling (conference, etc.) I have planned for the month of May, it seems I only have 7 weekends left in Kisumu. The past 9.5 months have just flown by...

Garissa!

Right now I am in Nairobi. This morning I was in Garissa, the provincial capital of Northeastern province which is on the border with Somalia. Don't worry – it turns out you only need an armored convoy if you drive past Garissa, for example to Dadaab, one of the main Somali refugee camps in Kenya. This trip to Garissa was planned and cancelled and planned again but I'm glad I got to go along for the ride – Dr. Njenga, the head of the new zoonoses program at CDC Kenya, worked in Garissa a few years ago during the Rift Valley Fever outbreak, and he's been wanting to get more projects set up there ever since. Now that we have a zoonoses program, and some exciting new collaborations, the plan is to set up a demographic surveillance system for livestock potentially in combination with an extension of my mobile-phone based surveillance – this time in a place with wildlife too!

Long story short, we met with lots of people, from the District Veterinary Officer to the Kenya Wildlife Service guys to my friends Kelly and Victoria who work in Kisumu but also happened to be in Garissa on Thursday night…Garissa is a predominantly Muslim town, so the only place that served alcohol (and since it was Victoria's 30^th birthday, the place where we had to go) is the Government Guesthouse. The town also features a lot of camels, a lot of dust, and one or possibly two fancy hotels that cost no more than 3000 shillings (about $35) per night. Our fancy hotel, the Nomad, had a staircase with stairs of varying heights. This is actually fairly common in Kenya and is extremely disconcerting. In any case, I had a really good time in Garissa and brainstorming how to set up an integrated human and animal disease surveillance system –plus I got to meet a baby giraffe rescued by the Kenya Wildlife Service after being abandoned by its mother. She is only a few days old (still has umbilical cord) and is already as tall as me!! I also got to see my first baobab trees on the drive over there. It is such a different part of Kenya than where I'd been before.

Giraffe calf being bottle fed at the KWS office

Baobab tree along the Garissa-Nairobi road

The extreme poverty in and around Garissa is in stark contrast to the ridiculousness of where some of the people that I work with live in Nairobi – there's kind of an ex-pat wonderland up near Muthaiga, which is a neighborhood full of extremely large fancy houses, and high stone walls with electrified or barbed wire on top. When we stopped inside Njenga's double-gated – think airlock except made of bars - compound to use the bathroom before hitting Nairobi traffic to get to our hostel, we wandered in to the community center which contains a store stocked full of American goods, as well as a large number of extremely well-dressed American stay at home moms and a group of teenage boys each on their own laptop with headphones on sitting around a table next to a pool and tennis courts. This is the neighborhood that I read about in It's Our Turn to Eat by Michela Wrong – where corrupt Kenyan politicians spend their millions. Speaking of millions, the top news story in one of the Kenyan papers was about $10,000,000 (yes, ten million US dollars) that one of the Ocampo 6 (the Kenyan leaders accused of war crimes for their role in the post-election violence in 2007) was clever enough to lose at the airport when coming back from hearing his accusations at the Hague. First of all, WHAT? And second of all, WHAT??? If you are carrying $10,000,000 in $100 bills in a duffel bag, shouldn't you handcuff it to your wrist? There is just so much fishiness in this story, including the question of how it is possible to carry 100,000 $100 bills in a carry-on, I don't even know where to start. Hopefully Robin Hood stole it…

Kakamega Birthday

Hello again - sorry it's been a long time, but the reward is lots of pictures (relatively) which will hopefully actually upload this time.

So since my last post (which was not a real post) I have been getting back into the swing of things with the project - we got our first lab results for an antibody test against toxoplasmosis, and we expanded so that our reports now will come from all 33 of the target villages. There has also been a lot of waiting for responses from people, as usual, and sadly as a result of that there are a huge number of tasks I haven't been able to cross off my list...I've tried to speed this along by putting very small and accomplishable tasks so I can cross them off. Things like "receive an e-mail from Amos" or "hope that the virtual server gets set up in time"... but anyway, things actually are moving along and I've been incredibly impressed with the drive of Victor, the guy who has been helping me set up RapidSMS, and hopefully together we'll be able to push through some progress.

Also since my last post, I turned 23, and I had a lovely party hosted by my friends Jason and Ricky, who are amazing, and many other also amazing friends turned up. Sadly I did not take many pictures, but Tor made homemade pita bread and there were many other deliciousnesses, and the cake, a three layer Banoffee Cake (banana bread/cake layered with dulce de leche and bananas with caramel frosting), was incredible, and we all have to appreciate it more because apparently Jason slaved over for almost 6 hours because there is only one springform pan in Kisumu. Thanks friends.

Yesterday I finally made it out to Kakamega Forest with Jo and Steph and Per and Karen and Darryn (my mentor, who is in Kenya probably for the last time before my fellowship ends). Kakamega forest is a fragment of the rainforest that used to stretch all the way across equatorial Africa. We hiked, and picnicked, and ate more delicious cake (carrot cake with lime frosting this time, also incredible), and saw birds and fungi and trees and bugs and lots of monkeys and sadly even some dead reptiles (a 4 foot long adder and two chameleons - one in the forest and one in the parking lot in my compound).

Here are some mushrooms on a tree:

Here's what the top of the hill at the edge of the forest looks like:

Here are some bats living in an old gold mine shaft:

Here are my travel buddies that didn't want to go and see the bats:

Monkey watching:

Hanging out with my favorite new housemate, Karen. We accidentally say the same thing all the time and also do a lot of crosswords together. We make a pretty good team, if I say so myself.

So all in all life continues to be excellent, although I have been stressed lately by possible last minute changes in my plans to go and see Doug. In order to tackle this stress, I have eaten an enormous amount of tofu which is homemade at the chinese restaurant in town. Next tactic: make a decision at deadline time (in 3 hours and 40 minutes)!

Well then.

For the past three weeks I have been doing things that don't involve creating blog posts. But luckily, for half of that time I was on vacation with my family and they did an excellent job retrospectively tracking our journey. So, although most of the readership of this blog was actually on the trip with me, those additional few might enjoy seeing the photo summary of our trip.

Since being back in Kisumu and sending the fam back around the world, I have been mostly having meetings and hoping that these meetings lead to progress. For now I'll have to leave you in suspense on whether that progress is actually occurring and get back to trying to make it happen.

Scotland is greyt

This past weekend I did some things which I can do in Kenya (lay around in bed; overheard conversations that at first seemed like a language I don't know and then turned out to be English) some things which I maybe can do in Kenya (saw The King's Speech with Brits that didn't know it was about Elizabeth II's father; went shopping and had to deal with huge crowds of people; watched Scotland vs Wales Rugby at a pub), and some things which I definitely can't do in Kenya (stream TV shows over the internet; take the bus from right in front of my house directly to the Royal Botanic Gardens!)

The view of Edinburgh from the Royal Botanic Gardens.

It was great but I did spend more time than usual by myself and I miss all my friends in Kenya. Being somewhere for only a month when everyone else lives there permanently isn't the best way to meet people, especially when there isn't a community of expats that you automatically join by being obviously foreign. Plus my flatmate Amy was busy because her boyfriend was visiting from some only slightly distant place.

On the other hand, I am really enjoying working here, the people are great and focusing on data and programming is a fun change: I did some productive internet stalking to find a guy who may or may not have developed a mobile phone based diagnostic support tool (he agreed to send me more details but hasn't yet), remembered how much I enjoy applied math, and applied said applied math through some R codes.

On the other other hand, I keep forgetting to put on my coat before going outside...

Wienerconference

Hello again! It's a beautiful day in Edinburgh, and I'm sitting at Roslin, overhearing conversation about research on chicken breeds. I contemplated working from home since none of my people are actually at Roslin today, but I realiSed that having a place to GO to actually makes the day feel more productive. Although maybe it's not, since I'm clearly writing a blog post instead of R code.

Yesterday I gave a presentation for the Epigroup meeting at King's Buildings, which is one of the other University of Edinburgh campuses, and I got to meet a lot of evolutionary biologists at tea time. I tried to convince them that I know something about evolutionary biology since it was half of my major but it's not really true. Oh well. The tea break was held in a room called the "Darwin Dance Hall," so that's amazing. But anyway, continuing to move backwards in time, this past weekend (Friday to Monday) I was in Vienna for the International Meeting on Emerging Diseases and Surveillance, with my buddy Dr. Jo. I presented two posters and she did a talk and we ate a lot of falafel instead of not-delicious traditional Austrian veggie options and it was super fun - story in pictures below. Since the internet works here!!!

1) Vienna is amazing. They have an ice rink which they call Wiener Eistroum which sadly we didn't get to skate on because they were zamboni-ing. It's got cool long narrow pathways and is not just a regular oval rink.

2) I don't know why I'm numbering these because they are very out of order. We had dinner with a friend of a friend of a friend's friends at an AMAZING Pakistani buffet place where you pay as much as you want to!!! Plus the veggie options were amazing and all vegan.

3) We also went out for some famous Viennese cake and late night coffee at an awesome packed coffee house with an awesome atmosphere.

4) Every night we walked back to our budget, non-conference hosting hotel past this ridiculous building with a crazy lit up ceiling. Still don't know what it is.

5) Eventually, I remembered to take out my camera when it was light out. This building is covered in scaffolding that is printed with an image of the building. CLEVER.

6) Flying out of Bratislava I was reminded about ONE HEALTH. Hoorah. Speaking of flying, I am very proud of my success at smuggling a 4 foot long poster tube in addition to my carry-on bag onto both Easyjet AND Ryanair. On the second flight I was aided by the incredibly long coat of an American that I randomly met while waiting for the bus in Bratislava.

7) Bratislava has a cool changing of the guard thing going. This was before I went to the airport. (I took a train from Vienna to Bratislava to get a direct flight back to Edinburgh. Sadly the high-speed catamaran ride up the Danube wasn't running at convenient times.)

8) Bratislava is not as clean as Vienna. It felt fairly depressed. But on the other hand I spend less than 5 Euros on a meal of the most amazing sandwich ever plus a decent sized glass of incredibly delicious fresh squeezed orange juice at a cafe called Tri-sty-ri which had a bookshelf with a door hidden in it. So overall a good experience. Slovakia: CHECK!

Vitamin D

I don't have much to say about life other than that since getting back from my visit to the US I've started missing things like fast internet and being able to drive myself around. Exactly one week from now I will be in the UK, and so the internet problem will be solved. Unfortunately the trip also means giving up sunshine and blue skies for quite a while. But, when you have the internet, you never need to go outside, right?

In terms of the project, I had a frustrating and depressing week last week trying to make things happen before I leave for Scotland next Monday, but Darryn pulled through in a Skype call and gave me just enough mentor encouragement to rekindle my optimism and help me get things done. So, reporting is starting up again this week, yay!

It is also necessary for me to post a picture of one of my favorite new puppies. Unfortunately, the internet just can't handle the picture uploading thing so you'll just have to make an assumption about her cuteness. In the comments, please debate about my puppy-acquiring aspiration. I'm pretty sure it won't be impossible for me to bring her back with me to the US in June.

wow fast internet

Just thinking how even though I'm home in NJ now, and the internet is super fast, I don't really feel like using it. Also been thinking about how lucky I am to live in Kenya. I wanted to find some pictures to convince you of that, but it's hard to express in pictures I guess. Come visit! I'll be back there Jan 8.


Those are impala on the side of the path.


Crater Lake, Naivasha.

Life on a Sugar Plantation

As you may recall from my last post, this past week has been incredibly busy as everything that needs to get done before the end of the year pretty much fails to get done. We successfully received our VIP visitors although we don't know yet how much they want to collaborate with us. On Friday CDC/KEMRI had a big retreat with enforced fun for all of the staff, including such amazing activities as an eating contest and trust falls. We (Darryn, Jo, Steph and I) escaped a bit early from the big day for our own personal working/writing retreat at a farmhouse about an hour outside of Kisumu. As you can see, it was both relaxing and productive, if you pretend that I could see my laptop screen while sitting in the 90 degree sun.

But honestly we did get a lot of work done, and went on a couple of horseback rides around the amazingly green landscape that is the sugar plantation. Actually it's not JUST a sugar plantation, they grow coffee, raise cows and make cheese, breed horses (they have 65) and run a guesthouse. Oh, those Kenyan Cowboys really know how to live the life! A few other visitors (two vets and a veterinary immunologist) came and joined us for the second night, bringing along a 12 year old Australian Cattle Dog that has lived on 4 continents. We had a lot of good talk about zoonotic disease surveillance etc leaving Steph to hopefully make progress on her solely human related work. The immunologist did her PhD and a postdoc at UCDavis before coming here. Honestly I meet more people with Davis connections than seems at all possible.

On the way back home this afternoon, we stopped at Tilapia Beach for lunch. This is the view over the "lake" aka invasive water hyacinth field... it drifts around disconcertingly and is sort of nauseating to watch because you don't really expect what looks like green land to be moving.

Tomorrow we have the day off for Kenyan Independence Day (actually today 12/12), Tuesday I'm going to the field to officially end the pilot stage of the surveillance project so that we can start afresh in January with a system that hopefully will work consistently, and Wednesday I fly to Nairobi for important work meetings with the important visitors from last week, then don't bother coming back to Kisumu before flying back to NJ on the 22nd! Wowee.

Kenyan Thanksgiving

As you may know, one of my favorite recipes ever is Potato and Kale Enchiladas from Veganomicon, which I'm excited to say I was successfully able to make (Kenyan fusion style) for Thanksgiving Potluck Part 2. I'm even more excited to be eating the leftovers for breakfast right now, along with Silk soy milk that a friend bestowed on me after her parents brought it all the way from Pennsylvania, and pistachios roasted with salt and lemon. Kenyan fusion style means cassava instead of potato, sukuma wiki instead of kale, cashews instead of pumpkin seeds, and a friend's homemade tortillas/chapattis. The non-Kenyan part is the delicious spiciness and lack of cornmeal. I bought the cassava when I was out in the field the other day, and for $.75 got probably 5 kg of awesome fresh cassava, so also had to find another cassava recipe, and although I thought long and hard about making this, and following carefully the directions at the end:

• 25 After eating, wash your hands and take your plates to wash
  
• 26 After washing, keep them in the safe place and rest for some minutes in order to allow your food function well into your body.Here you may call it a day
  

I decided that garlic and lime (all small sour citrus fruits are called lemon here, actually, regardless of how dark green they are) would be the best ever, because honestly why isn't everything garlic and lime flavored, and made this one.

All the food brought by everyone else was obviously delicious too, although I didn't try the locally raised turkey, which apparently costs way more than chicken because people around here don't really eat turkeys so much as use them as guard dogs. But the adventure of the day was jackfruit. Every morning, Steph and Jo and I sit and wait for the shuttle to Kisian under a jackfruit tree, and wonder what tragedy would occur if the fruit fell off the tree. We finally got up the nerve to ask the staff at the hotel whether we could have one, and they were nice enough to give us one for free (no one here eats them, although you can see them for sale in Uganda). We called it a baby and carried it around, letting it stink up the car while we ran some errands, and later on Ricky showed us how to prepare it. The slimy stickiness got everywhere and we made some of the fruit into smoothies but overall were unable to handle the sickly sweetness, but we did have fun shooting the seeds at each other. If it had been an unripe one, I would have tried this recipe...

Our jackfruit baby/small child

As for real Thanksgiving (on Thursday), I worked all day which was very eventful, since everyone goes on leave pretty early in December and therefore freaks out at the end of November about all the things that need to be done by the end of the year, for example transitioning the entire Human Morbidity Survey from PDAs to smartphones in 4 weeks… Also apparently in the Nairobi KEMRI/CDC office they take off both Kenyan and American holidays but here we only get Kenyan ones. Then I attended a potluck with lots of high ranking CDC and Walter Reed people, and the cultural differences between civilian and army health research organizations was glaringly obvious, so John the statistician decided that his next job should be writing an awkward style sitcom about CDC and Walter Reed employees in Kisumu. I'll let you know when it comes out.

World Rabies Day!

On Saturday I helped out with the World Rabies Day dog vaccination campaign - this was supposed to be held on September 28^th, but for various reasons was postponed. It was hectic, and crazy, and although my initial role was to ride around and visit the 9 vaccination sites and help out with coordination, at one particular site I got pulled into writing vaccination certificates. Obviously this was the best role for the Mzungu that speaks very minimal Luo, and I'm sure I ended up asking "Your name is dog?" over and over again. Oh well.

The important lesson to be learned from all of this is that people here give their dogs ridiculous names. The most common name seemed to be Michelle, with a Barack or two and a few Obamas. Second most common set of names included Annan and Mugabe, and there was also a good contingent of Osamas and Saddams. My favorite was Tuktuk. Naming a dog after a rattly motor rickshaw taxi seems like a great idea to me.

Okay so here are some pictures of puppies.

More can be found here:

2010-11-20 World Rabies Day

Cool Conferences

Kampala was awesome, but it does feel nice to be back at home in Kenya where I know my way around... The conference was basically amazing because I made friends with a ton of cool people and learned about all sorts of awesome technologies. The proceedings are at m4d.humanit.org if you are interested in the kinds of things the conference was about. The city of Kampala is also basically amazing, because it is super green and has a lot of really old and tall trees which means there are a ton of birds, and because it’s built on a bunch of hills the birds basically fly at the level of windows on the buildings even when the buildings aren’t that tall. There was also a group of migratory fruit bats which were huge and awesome and distracting.

Saturday I stopped in Jinja, which has a crazy beach town vibe, and got to visit the source of the Nile (the point where they decided that Lake Victoria becomes narrow enough to be called a river…it used to be a waterfall but then they built several dams.) On the way back, we got held up at the border for an hour or more because the police were interrogating people on my bus because of some con involving a money changer. Never really got the details.

Of course, while I was away the guy in charge of the really incredibly frustrating lab software, Freezerworks, didn’t get anything done (for my project at least), so today involved sitting with him for about 2 hours while he set up the stuff that was supposed to happen in September but that has been delayed by just about every problem imaginable. Then the program crashed…sooo we’ll try to finish it tomorrow.

Also while I was away someone apparently started making a decision about transitioning a particular project from using PDAs for data collection to using smartphones! Basically there are a bunch of projects that talk about their intentions to do this but it seemed like nothing was going to happen before the middle of next year. Also, despite the fact that we have a mobile technology working group here, the decision makers for the projects tend to not participate in those groups and so no one knows what stage any other group is at in terms of the transition. Since I’ve been thinking about mobile technology a ton, I decided to call a meeting to get everyone to update each other on the projects so that if possible people can use compatible technology and share expertise and resources.

Okay…just got back from above meeting and due to drug company pressure for monitoring a vaccine trial they have to have the whole thing set up in six weeks, including procurement, which alone normally takes several months, so for a ton of different easiness reasons they are going to use Windows Mobile. Android still makes sense for me so sadly I will be losing some immediate collaborators that would have helped speed things along. OH WELL. Gonna make it happen anyway.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the plumbing stopped working in my office building (aka the main science building of the public health organizations of Kenya and the US here in Kisumu) so yesterday we were supposedly not allowed to use the bathroom, but today it just has a sign that says "please use responsibly" on it. INCONVENIENT.

Now for some pictures!

The source of the Nile!

Options to choose from...

A giant spider. The little brown spec on the left of the big spider is a normal sized spider. For comparison.

Traditional multiplayer xylophones! Just like I learned about in Music of Africa!

The awesome bats in Kampala (Just realized that bats in Uganda carry Marburg virus. That sucks.)!!!

The pictures you have all been waiting for

So I'm currently sitting at the Duke of Breeze Rooftop Bar (DuKe stands for Dutch Kenyans since it is run by some Dutch people, apparently they showed the World Cup final here and all the Dutch in town (which is many) turned up).

The reason I'm not at the office, besides the fact that the internet there is awful, is that this morning I had to renew my visa! That means I've been here three months. Which is ridiculous since, if you count the month or two I'll be in Scotland and other places, it means that I am a third of the way through my time in Kenya. Ahhh I'm scaring myself. But renewing the visa was thankfully painless, although I had to strike a delicate balance and make sure to emphasize that I am not working but just came here on holiday because I love Kenya. Which is pretty much true. I also had to give real ink fingerprints, and my hands are a bit stained now but presumably that won't last forever. And apparently in a month I can go back and pick up my Alien Registration acknowledgment, whatever that means.

So I decided to take this opportunity to use the fast internet and download all the programs I need to start setting up a data collection program on Android. And post a ton of pictures.

First, the house I live in:

The living room. Note the parquet floors and tasteful interior stone wall.

My backyard (there is a very noisy construction site on the other side of the wall).

The view of the sunset from my porch.

The view from the top of Mount Kisian (aka the hill near the CDC/KEMRI HQ)

A newborn calf reported and responded to.

Participants in our Participatory Epidemiology interviews participating by deciding how to divide buttons to indicate the causes of certain types of diarrhea.

My job as recorder mostly involved counting buttons and reminding the translator to tell me what was going on.

On Ndere Island, there are a ton of swallows.

Jo, Steph and Per walking ahead of me on the island.

This calf was the last one recruited to the IDEAL study that I talked about a few weeks ago. They get sampled every 5 weeks from birth to a year, so this calf, at the last visit, clearly knew what was in store for it.

What was in store for it involved being measured with a giant ruler. By the way, this calf, according to genetic markers, is 100% native African cattle with no European blood. They used it as a really prime example of why you can't tell the breed just by looking at color.

This is the view of the Kisumu skyline from the lake. The one relatively tall building that stands out is a 30 floor (ish) monstrosity that was built as the provincial headquarters. That's where I went to get my visa renewed this morning. Unfortunately, the building was ahead of its time, and they may have run out of money while building it, so it sat empty for a long time. Now the bottom 6 floors are in use, but none above that because there is no elevator.