Easter birthdays and weddings

Pascal the tuktuk driver was born on Easter, like me. Unlike me, he celebrates his birthday on Easter regardless of when it happens to fall, and claims to not actually know the correct date. Apparently he said "My birthday has never been at the end of April before!"

Most people here don't have birth certificates and may also take some liberties with their age and their birthday. A friend told me about twins that she knows - on the official government ID of the brother, it says he was born 5 years earlier than his twin sister. Either people don't know, or don't really care about their exact age. This kind of disregard for facts reminds me of my primary pet peeve [bigger peeves, such as rampant corruption, are not included...] about Kenya - which is that people don't care about how things are spelled! People spell their names differently at different times, which I can accept as personal choice, but this trend also spills over into the set up of our lab database and other places where data matching is essential. It kind of makes me twitch.

In other news, this past weekend I traveled to Ruma National Park, "the last home of the Roan antelope [in Kenya]," which is an incredibly beautiful park south of here. To get there, we drove north around Winam Gulf and took the ferry across to Mbita. Somehow they manage to fit about 9 cars on a fairly small boat, along with a lot of people, bags of charcoal, motorbikes, wooden poles, and just about anything you can think of. Luckily the ride is only 45 minutes and there aren't too many hippos or crocodiles out in the center of the lake...


The ferry ride is awesome, though, and we got to see a different perspective of the lake. Kenya has about 6% of the whole of Lake Victoria, most of which is a gulf that is frequently clogged with water hyacinth and which is full of schistosomes.


Once on the other side, the lake opens out and looks more like an ocean, with little waves and a huge blueness that is a really nice contrast to the brown and green lake that I'm used to seeing.

Ruma is a cool park - although it rained heavily on us when we drove through the first time. We say an enormous group (tower) of giraffes standing out in the rain, probably 35 of them.


We stayed at the Kenya Wildlife Service banda which is a self-catering cottage, and we did a lot of self-catering...we brought enough food for several armies. But we had an excellent time sitting on the terrace and enjoying this view over the park:


We were inspired to go to Ruma because a friend from the UK was getting married to a Luo man out there in his rural home, which is so close to Tanzania that as kids they would just ride their bikes across the border. The wedding was really fun, although we had to run away from the reception early before a huge storm blew all the tents over, and we possibly severely insulted the hosts by not shoving food down our throats as we ran away. Oops. It was exciting to see a wedding with such a fun mix of Western and African traditions - although the bride wore a white dress, the groom, groomsmen and bridesmaid were all decked out in colorful Kenyan fabric.

This week there is another long weekend - Monday is off for May day or some bank holiday or something. Perhaps I will take another exciting trip! But with all the traveling (conference, etc.) I have planned for the month of May, it seems I only have 7 weekends left in Kisumu. The past 9.5 months have just flown by...

Kakamega Birthday

Hello again - sorry it's been a long time, but the reward is lots of pictures (relatively) which will hopefully actually upload this time.

So since my last post (which was not a real post) I have been getting back into the swing of things with the project - we got our first lab results for an antibody test against toxoplasmosis, and we expanded so that our reports now will come from all 33 of the target villages. There has also been a lot of waiting for responses from people, as usual, and sadly as a result of that there are a huge number of tasks I haven't been able to cross off my list...I've tried to speed this along by putting very small and accomplishable tasks so I can cross them off. Things like "receive an e-mail from Amos" or "hope that the virtual server gets set up in time"... but anyway, things actually are moving along and I've been incredibly impressed with the drive of Victor, the guy who has been helping me set up RapidSMS, and hopefully together we'll be able to push through some progress.

Also since my last post, I turned 23, and I had a lovely party hosted by my friends Jason and Ricky, who are amazing, and many other also amazing friends turned up. Sadly I did not take many pictures, but Tor made homemade pita bread and there were many other deliciousnesses, and the cake, a three layer Banoffee Cake (banana bread/cake layered with dulce de leche and bananas with caramel frosting), was incredible, and we all have to appreciate it more because apparently Jason slaved over for almost 6 hours because there is only one springform pan in Kisumu. Thanks friends.

Yesterday I finally made it out to Kakamega Forest with Jo and Steph and Per and Karen and Darryn (my mentor, who is in Kenya probably for the last time before my fellowship ends). Kakamega forest is a fragment of the rainforest that used to stretch all the way across equatorial Africa. We hiked, and picnicked, and ate more delicious cake (carrot cake with lime frosting this time, also incredible), and saw birds and fungi and trees and bugs and lots of monkeys and sadly even some dead reptiles (a 4 foot long adder and two chameleons - one in the forest and one in the parking lot in my compound).

Here are some mushrooms on a tree:

Here's what the top of the hill at the edge of the forest looks like:

Here are some bats living in an old gold mine shaft:

Here are my travel buddies that didn't want to go and see the bats:

Monkey watching:

Hanging out with my favorite new housemate, Karen. We accidentally say the same thing all the time and also do a lot of crosswords together. We make a pretty good team, if I say so myself.

So all in all life continues to be excellent, although I have been stressed lately by possible last minute changes in my plans to go and see Doug. In order to tackle this stress, I have eaten an enormous amount of tofu which is homemade at the chinese restaurant in town. Next tactic: make a decision at deadline time (in 3 hours and 40 minutes)!

Wienerconference

Hello again! It's a beautiful day in Edinburgh, and I'm sitting at Roslin, overhearing conversation about research on chicken breeds. I contemplated working from home since none of my people are actually at Roslin today, but I realiSed that having a place to GO to actually makes the day feel more productive. Although maybe it's not, since I'm clearly writing a blog post instead of R code.

Yesterday I gave a presentation for the Epigroup meeting at King's Buildings, which is one of the other University of Edinburgh campuses, and I got to meet a lot of evolutionary biologists at tea time. I tried to convince them that I know something about evolutionary biology since it was half of my major but it's not really true. Oh well. The tea break was held in a room called the "Darwin Dance Hall," so that's amazing. But anyway, continuing to move backwards in time, this past weekend (Friday to Monday) I was in Vienna for the International Meeting on Emerging Diseases and Surveillance, with my buddy Dr. Jo. I presented two posters and she did a talk and we ate a lot of falafel instead of not-delicious traditional Austrian veggie options and it was super fun - story in pictures below. Since the internet works here!!!

1) Vienna is amazing. They have an ice rink which they call Wiener Eistroum which sadly we didn't get to skate on because they were zamboni-ing. It's got cool long narrow pathways and is not just a regular oval rink.

2) I don't know why I'm numbering these because they are very out of order. We had dinner with a friend of a friend of a friend's friends at an AMAZING Pakistani buffet place where you pay as much as you want to!!! Plus the veggie options were amazing and all vegan.

3) We also went out for some famous Viennese cake and late night coffee at an awesome packed coffee house with an awesome atmosphere.

4) Every night we walked back to our budget, non-conference hosting hotel past this ridiculous building with a crazy lit up ceiling. Still don't know what it is.

5) Eventually, I remembered to take out my camera when it was light out. This building is covered in scaffolding that is printed with an image of the building. CLEVER.

6) Flying out of Bratislava I was reminded about ONE HEALTH. Hoorah. Speaking of flying, I am very proud of my success at smuggling a 4 foot long poster tube in addition to my carry-on bag onto both Easyjet AND Ryanair. On the second flight I was aided by the incredibly long coat of an American that I randomly met while waiting for the bus in Bratislava.

7) Bratislava has a cool changing of the guard thing going. This was before I went to the airport. (I took a train from Vienna to Bratislava to get a direct flight back to Edinburgh. Sadly the high-speed catamaran ride up the Danube wasn't running at convenient times.)

8) Bratislava is not as clean as Vienna. It felt fairly depressed. But on the other hand I spend less than 5 Euros on a meal of the most amazing sandwich ever plus a decent sized glass of incredibly delicious fresh squeezed orange juice at a cafe called Tri-sty-ri which had a bookshelf with a door hidden in it. So overall a good experience. Slovakia: CHECK!

Asechopo Edinburgh

"Asechopo" means "I have arrived" in Dholuo. It also means my language lessons are paying off! A bit.

Anyway, arriving in the UK was a bit of a shocking transition, flying in, seeing all the bright lights that indicate a city, and realizing that everyone here has electricity all of the time! Wow! Also, it's cold, and the morning takes a long time to get bright. I'm staying with Jo and Amy, vet epi people that work in Kenya, and we are next door to a Waitrose supermarket and a Chinese restaurant and across the street from a pub. We have a washing machine but no dryer, and I'll be doing my own laundry again! And I went shopping at the supermarket and got SOOOOOOOO excited, I bought all my favorite British vegan items.

I've spent a lot of time in the UK and I feel very comfortable here and am used to British money and British queueing and all of those things, but I still really feel the contrast between here and Kenya which I didn't feel when I was home for Christmas. For example, I got excited about the potable tap water! And the availability of certain delicious food items, and the bus system! I think the difference in feeling comes from the fact that when I go home, it's just home, and I know and expect things to be the way that they have always been. But Scotland is not quite home, and I'm staying in a flat I've never been in before, and so all of the exciting things about being back in a developed country actually stand out.

I also realized that Edinburgh has approximately the same population size as Kisumu. Which is crazy, considering it feels like a big city and Kisumu most definitely does not. Edinburgh also doesn't have slums and the population isn't half children and the children that there are don't yell in excitement when you walk down the street. But it's not hot and sunny every day and people don't always ask you how you are and everything is expensive.

So anyway, this morning I bought food and unpacked a bit and then took the bus up to the Roslin Institute, where I'll be based for the month that I'm here. My very brief tour of the building was "that's where they cloned Dolly the sheep" and "in this hallway they deal with TSEs" and "they make a lot of things fluorescent here." Pretty cool place to be! We had a brief lunch meeting where it was determined that the data I will be working with isn't ready to be worked with and the code that I need to adapt we don't have yet. But that's okay, it will all happen eventually, and hopefully the fact that I've actually arrived will lead to more things happening, and I'm going to Vienna this weekend for a conference and I have plenty of things to teach myself in order to be able to use the data anyway (what I'll be doing, fyi, is using the data from a study that these guys did in Kenya to improve and expand an existing diagnostic support tool for cattle and making it so it can be used on a smartphone). Hopefully.

OH GEEZ

So…yeah, BUSY BUSY BUSY basically. That's all. I am taking time out of my packed schedule to write this because it seems like relevant procrastination.

So I was in Nairobi the past couple of days, so that I could meet with the head of epidemiology at the Department of Veterinary Services. I even briefly met the Director of Veterinary Services for Kenya, and he told us stories about the good ol' days when Veterinary Officers in remote districts could pretend to be doing work when they weren't. It probably seems like the meeting was a really big deal, and it was sort of, but I went with two of the Kenyan vets that I work with, and basically they are all buddies because there is only one vet school in Kenya and every vet therefore knows every other vet and all of his or her business (77 newly minted vets graduated last year, and apparently that is a huge class). Anyway, they weren't as excited about immediately implementing my mobile technology disease surveillance in every district as I would have hoped, but they did want to make sure that the information we collect gets to the local Veterinary Officer, possibly monthly, which sort of defeats the purpose of real time reporting but ANYWAY we'll see what actually happens. They are, on the other hand, piloting digital pen technology for notifiable diseases as well as mobile phone reporting for "zero reports" where they do active surveillance to make sure that certain diseases (like Rinderpest, which was recently eradicated) is actually not there. The mobile phone based syndromic surveillance that we are doing with ADSARS would do a third and separate thing, which is allow for timely surveillance of not-necessarily-notifiable diseases as well as emerging diseases.

I also had the opportunity to observe arthopod collection in the slum of Kibera, which basically involved following around a guy with a ghostbusters-type backpack vacuum cleaner mosquito catcher through the narrow streets and open sewers and into people's homes. The demographic surveillance they are doing in Kibera is equivalent to the study in the rural area near Kisumu, except it is about as urban as you can get. The part of Kibera that we were in is predominantly Luo, so they speak Dholuo, which is just like being in the field out here so it was quite an interesting contrast. The houses we went into were filled with a lot more stuff than I had imagined would be the case, but it made me realize that the difference between rural poverty and slum poverty, in a certain sense, is that by moving to a slum you have the potential for electricity sometimes, and to own a TV and furniture with cushions, and have a water tap nearby, and what you give up is a relatively clean environment and the ability to grow food to eat. Obviously that is a simplistic description of a very complex social phenomenon but it expresses my first impression, I guess.

But the primary reason that I am so busy, besides everyone freaking out about getting stuff done by the end of the year, is that we have some very important visitors next week and I have to do a presentation on ADSARS to try to convince them to collaborate with us. While in Nairobi, I also got to meet with our newly appointed head of Zoonoses at CDC Kenya (previously lab director), and he is awesome, and he loves ADSARS, and he has a ton of suggestions and can convince the lab people that this is a priority so that maybe we can actually get some lab tests to happen…and also next week when he's in Kisumu will find time to talk to me about my life plans and potentially making things happen in order for me to not just abandon this project while it's just getting going. So we'll see! But anyway, in addition to the important people, I'm supposed to be in Bondo for the third and final stage of the participatory epidemiology study Sunday through Thursday, plus Darryn and his ex-boss Sarah will be around and I'm submitting abstracts/papers for conferences, and writing about ADSARS for CDC's Global Disease Detection yearly newsletter by Monday! I'm also going to travel back to Nairobi with the whole group of visitors December 14 - 17 which is practically tomorrow, and then it probably wouldn't make sense for me to come back to Kisumu just for the weekend before flying to the US on December 22 so basically that means I'm leaving practically tomorrow. DOES TIME EVEN MAKE SENSE?

But it is just as important for me to mention that I ate Lebanese food in Nairobi and it was basically the best EVER EVER EVER and I ate at least 4 platefuls and then had leftovers for breakfast and why can't Kenyan food be more like Lebanese food?

Kenyan Thanksgiving

As you may know, one of my favorite recipes ever is Potato and Kale Enchiladas from Veganomicon, which I'm excited to say I was successfully able to make (Kenyan fusion style) for Thanksgiving Potluck Part 2. I'm even more excited to be eating the leftovers for breakfast right now, along with Silk soy milk that a friend bestowed on me after her parents brought it all the way from Pennsylvania, and pistachios roasted with salt and lemon. Kenyan fusion style means cassava instead of potato, sukuma wiki instead of kale, cashews instead of pumpkin seeds, and a friend's homemade tortillas/chapattis. The non-Kenyan part is the delicious spiciness and lack of cornmeal. I bought the cassava when I was out in the field the other day, and for $.75 got probably 5 kg of awesome fresh cassava, so also had to find another cassava recipe, and although I thought long and hard about making this, and following carefully the directions at the end:

• 25 After eating, wash your hands and take your plates to wash
  
• 26 After washing, keep them in the safe place and rest for some minutes in order to allow your food function well into your body.Here you may call it a day
  

I decided that garlic and lime (all small sour citrus fruits are called lemon here, actually, regardless of how dark green they are) would be the best ever, because honestly why isn't everything garlic and lime flavored, and made this one.

All the food brought by everyone else was obviously delicious too, although I didn't try the locally raised turkey, which apparently costs way more than chicken because people around here don't really eat turkeys so much as use them as guard dogs. But the adventure of the day was jackfruit. Every morning, Steph and Jo and I sit and wait for the shuttle to Kisian under a jackfruit tree, and wonder what tragedy would occur if the fruit fell off the tree. We finally got up the nerve to ask the staff at the hotel whether we could have one, and they were nice enough to give us one for free (no one here eats them, although you can see them for sale in Uganda). We called it a baby and carried it around, letting it stink up the car while we ran some errands, and later on Ricky showed us how to prepare it. The slimy stickiness got everywhere and we made some of the fruit into smoothies but overall were unable to handle the sickly sweetness, but we did have fun shooting the seeds at each other. If it had been an unripe one, I would have tried this recipe...

Our jackfruit baby/small child

As for real Thanksgiving (on Thursday), I worked all day which was very eventful, since everyone goes on leave pretty early in December and therefore freaks out at the end of November about all the things that need to be done by the end of the year, for example transitioning the entire Human Morbidity Survey from PDAs to smartphones in 4 weeks… Also apparently in the Nairobi KEMRI/CDC office they take off both Kenyan and American holidays but here we only get Kenyan ones. Then I attended a potluck with lots of high ranking CDC and Walter Reed people, and the cultural differences between civilian and army health research organizations was glaringly obvious, so John the statistician decided that his next job should be writing an awkward style sitcom about CDC and Walter Reed employees in Kisumu. I'll let you know when it comes out.

A few snippets

The canteen here at CDC/KEMRI is amazing. Today for lunch I got an enormous plate of beans, mung bean stew, vegetable stew, plantain, rice, chapattis, and sukuma wiki for about 50 cents. DELISH.

Also in food news, my housemates and I had an awesome Kenyan dinner last night prepared by a couple of the guys that we know, followed by a conversation in which the Kenyans argued that divorce does not make sense and we argued that their lack of understanding of divorce did not make sense. Not very productive in terms of changing the views of either side…

CDC/KEMRI is awesome and has seminars every Tuesday morning at 8:30 so this morning was a presentation on repeated segments of DNA and how they can impact susceptibility to various diseases. Super cool, and my MOL 342 knowledge came in handy for understanding what the guy was talking about. Yay college.

The project is going well so far, too, except for FrontlineSMS somehow totally breaking down yesterday because they used a trial version of software to create the newest update WHOOPS (now fixed apparently but I haven't yet reinstalled). I came up with a pretty good diagram of how our information transfer will go (farmer > community reporter > animal health assistants > program manager (me)) and thought through the logistics of reimbursement and data transfer. Next week is the referendum election on the new constitution (and I'm going to go up to Mpala) so everything will be totally shut down, but after that we will be training the animal health reporters in using FrontlineForms on their cell phones (that I still have to set up) to report when there is an incident in their community. We also have to train the animal health assistant response team on the clinical signs collection protocol and diagnostic sample collection for the 20ish diseases that we are concerned about for now, that's what I'm working on putting together at the moment with lots of help from my favorite book, Infectious Diseases of Livestock (3 vols.). Darryn is going to be working directly with the author/editor in Pretoria pretty soon, but he might not be able to get me a free copy OH WELL. But in any case overall I feel like I have some good short term goals set up and know the way forward a lot better than I did before.

I got to go over to help identify a couple of ticks that Alice was having trouble with, and wasn't actually that much help, but did get to see a cool Amblyomma adult that looks tiny, pale and sickly because it fed on a less than ideal host, like a chicken or something, as a nymph and therefore was not able to develop into its usual impressive adult form. COOL.

There are tiny ants on my desk that hopefully are helping me by cleaning my keyboard. But possibly they are disassembling my hard drive piece by tiny piece.